Paint Bombs

To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place.

Touch Explosives

This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:

– Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).

– Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets ’em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone’s chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun!

Solidox Bombs

Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
chemical can be bought over the counter:  Solidox.Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and canbe bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around$7.00.  Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizingagent for the hot flame needed to melt metal.  The most activeingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in manymilitary applications in the WWII era.Since Solidox is literally what the name says:  SOLID OXygen, youmust have an energy source for an explosion.  The most common andreadily available energy source is common household sugar, orsucrose.  In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.Making the mixture:[1]  Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks.  One by     one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar     and pestle) into the finest powder possible.[2]  The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so     weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount     of sugar.[3]  Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1     ratio.It is just that simple!  You now have an extremely powerfulsubstance that can be used in a variety of applications.  A wordof caution:  be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process.  Avoidfriction, heat, and flame.  A few years back, a teenager I knewblew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned!SolidOx can no longer be bought in KMart.  A plumbing and heating supplystore, or even Sears may have small quantities for sale, at about$18.00 for 10 stix.

Picking Master Locks

Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?

The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme.  If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn.  That was their biggest mistake.

The first number:

Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach.  You now
have the first number of the combination.

The second number:

Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got.  Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once.  When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob.  The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock.  While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob.  If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.

The third number:

After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers.  Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp.  The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.

This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).

The older models are from 1988-1990.

Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany.  Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.

First off, you must obtain:

[1]  A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2]  A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3]  A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4]  Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it.  While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3.  If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius.  Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them.  Boil this solution again
and cool as before.  Filter and save the crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions:  56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water.  Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool.  Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling.  This process of purification is called
“fractional crystalization”.  These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.

Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax.  Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl.  Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed.  Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place.  Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds.  This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof.  These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.  Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage.  You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.

Credit Card Fraud

For most of you out there, money is hard to come by.  Until now:

With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else’s credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life.  The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.

Step One:  Getting the credit card information

First off, you must obtain the crucial item:  someone’s credit
card number.  The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store.  These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind the store.  But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult.  This is where your
phone comes in handy.

First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them.  Then, during business hours,
call in a very convincing voice – “Hello, this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department.  We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification.”  Of course, use
your imagination!  Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.

Now, assuming that you have your victim’s credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.

Step Two:  Recognizing information from carbon copies

Card examples:

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
expiration date.  The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.

[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process.  The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires.  The most frequent number
combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX.  There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.

[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY    MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere.  The “*VISA” is sometimes replaced with “BWG”, or
followed with a special code.  These codes are as follows:

[1]  MM/YY*VISA V – Preferred Card
[2]  MM/YY*VISA CV – Classic Card
[3]  MM/YY*VISA PV – Premier Card

Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
use.  Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing.  Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
coverage.  Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX.  Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.

Step Three:  Testing credit

You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
credit card number, with the victim’s address, zip code, and phone
number.  By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge.  Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don’t run
out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn’t
stolen.  To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases.  If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase.  He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then give what is called a
“Merchant Number”.  These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register.  It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in.  Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number.  Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date.  The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
number.  Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check it.  Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose.  However, once you do this, the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase.  Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it.  Of course, some will not allow this.  Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase.  Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she “cancels”.

Step Four:  The drop

Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent.  NEVER use a drop more than once.  The following are
typical drop sites:

[1]  An empty house

An empty house makes an excellent place to send things.  Send the
package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, “UPS.  I work
days, 8 to 6.  Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?”  You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house.  Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area.  Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.

[2]  Rent A Spot

U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for.  End your space when the package arrives.

[3]  People’s houses

Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that “I called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address.  It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?”  This is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.

Do NOT try post office boxes.  Most of the time, UPS will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box.  Also, when you have
determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.

Step Five:  Making the transaction

You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.

The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number.  Now, when you call,
don’t try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult.  These folks are
trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice.  They will ask for the following:  name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product.  Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order.  If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won’t encourage
investigation on the order.

If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge.  Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser.  Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500.  In some states,
UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud.  Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years.  Good luck!

Counterfeiting Money

Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in
counterfeiting US currency.  If you are familiar with this method
of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine currency is made by a process called “gravure”, which
involves etching a metal block.  Since etching a metal block is
impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the
process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency
with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
material (usually orange in color).  The stripped negatives,
commonly called “flats”, are then exposed to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker.  The burned plates are then
developed with the proper developing chemical.  One at a time,
these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick
360.  Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of
the back side.  After developing them and letting them dry, take
them to a light table.  Using opaque on one of the portrait sides,
touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers.
The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color.  Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats.  By the way, every time you
need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side,
cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
the flat replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color:
black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
by mixing inks).  Now you are ready to burn the plates.  Take a
lithographic plate and etch three marks on it.  These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates.  Then, take 1 of the flats and
place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate.  Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and
cover up the exposed area you have already burned.  Burn that, and
do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate).  Develop all three plates.  You should now have 4 images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for
most situations.  The paper to use should have a 25% rag content.
By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the job well.  Take the paper and load it into the press.  Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right.  Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers).  Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in.  Make sure you run more
than you need because there will be a lot of rejects.  Then, while
that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back
side.  You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
serial number ink.  You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you get it right.  Now, clean the press and print
the other side.  You will now have a bill with no green seal or
serial numbers.  Print a few with one serial number, make another
and repeat.  Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want.  Then cut the bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter.  You should have printed a large amount of money by
now, but there is still one problem;  the paper is pure white.  To
dye it, mix the following in a pan:  2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
with this).  Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
US bill.  Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills.
Also, it is a good idea to make them look used.  For example,
wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly
hard to understand.  Along with getting a book on photo offset
printing, try to see the movie “To Live and Die in LA”.  It is
about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how to counterfeit.  A good book on the subject is “The
Poor Man’s James Bond”.

If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
method available for counterfeiting:  The Canon color laser
copier.  The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,
including US currency.  But, once again, the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used.  So, experiment, and good luck!

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